If Tokyo didn't feel like your stereotypical idea of Japan, Kyoto sure fit the bill. Arriving in the city from bustling Tokyo felt like a jerk back into the '80s—that is, Japanese TV from the era—from the slightly dustier buildings to shoulder pads and pre-Gatsbied hairstyles.
On the bus, an old man asked us where we were from, and proceeded to excitedly name two things he knew Singapore for: Changi Airport and “prime minister” Lee Kuan Yew. Since it's been a good 20 years since the man served as prime minister, it was all very fitting as a scene out of the '80s on that bus, lurching towards our ryokan.
Reviews of Kyoto online seem mixed, but having spent an extra, unplanned day in the city, I think it's one that you have to give a chance.
Sure, it doesn't reach out to wow you as quickly as Tokyo does, but it grows on you quickly as a great place to live and visit from some of the cities, even those as fast-paced as Tokyo.
For one, Kyoto is by no means a sleepy town. Its bustling downtown area sports malls and shops you can waste an afternoon in, and around the city hall area are smaller, upmarket shops and cafes.
Its offering of massive shrines and gardens are its main treasure, however. From the sprawling imperial gardens to the Fushimi Inari shrine, these provided a distinct character and respite from the cityscape.
Orange pillars of the Fushimi Inari. What do you mean you've seen this shot already in a travel book?
We also stumbled upon a suddenly quiet, still street in Gion, where geisha entertained behind unlabelled restaurant doors to an exclusive patronage. Up the street, there was a guy loitering with a camera, and we paused near him to look at the map when suddenly, a geisha scuttled out of one of the houses, eyes averted, and hurried quickly into a waiting cab before it sped off into the darkness.
One interesting thing to do was going to the public bath house, or sento. I thought the sign outside was ramen, because it looked like a steaming bowl of soup, but I realised it's a steaming soup of naked people. Close enough.
Nonetheless, it's not as unsexy (or sexy, depending on your taste) as that. It felt like a great penny spa, and scrubbing down before soaking in the hot water was incredible just before bed.
I would absolutely recommend going around Kyoto by bicycle. The city is prepared with bicycle lanes and cars go much more slowly than in Tokyo as well.
It's also easy to navigate, being smaller than Tokyo, and the river running down the spine of the city was invaluable as a navigation landmark.
Going across the whole city in one day by bike is a little ambitious, albeit still doable. My sit bones ached for two days after, though.
Apart from its rather intense love affair with mochi, Kyoto was a lovely holiday-from-a-holiday in Tokyo, and showed a much more regular, yet charming side of Japan. I'm glad I didn't miss it.
Some review online said this koi-cha (thick tea) at the Ippodo Tea Company outlet was a must-try. It was pretty much green tea paste, which only later became something resembling green tea after about four washes with water. Try it if you're curious.
Pachinko parlour