Finding authenticity in Dubai
Before I went off to Dubai for a short work trip, most of the casual reviews from friends described an artificial city, a fake metropolis.
But I like cities. So I didn’t think it would be anything short of pleasant. Malls, restaurants, first world transport and amenities, what’s not to like?
Since I was there for work, I was nestled in the shinier side of town amid gleaming steel and glass structures. My hotel was also next to the sprawling Dubai Mall. I had ventured in one lunch break, and The World's Biggest didn't fail to impress.
Wikipedia says it has more space than 50 football pitches. Holy crap.
The Burj Khalifa building
The mall houses a huge aquarium.
Right above the aquarium, there is an artificial sky with twinkling stars.
A very sanitised 'gold souk' market area inside the mall.
The Dubai fountain in the day is the centrepiece connecting a number of Emaar's properties: the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall, The Palace hotel and The Old Town souk-themed shopping area. The US$200 million project was done in 2008, and (clearly this doesn't happen only in Singapore), its name was the winning entry in a contest.
Perhaps emblematic of much of the nouveau riche culture in Dubai, there was a shiny Lamborghini parked outside the Dubai Mall. Inside, plastic-covered seats. Lol.
The Palace hotel
On my last day in the city, I had the afternoon free, so I wandered away from the downtown project towards the other side of town, where the (actual) souks are. I suppose it must be a sign of China’s economic progress, but we were constantly accosted by touts along the street yelling "ni hao".
And not "konichiwa". Japan's economy has seen better days, but I've been grown accustomed to barks of "arigato" and "Nippon" on travels abroad, although it's become less of an occurrence in recent years.
Chinese tourist at the old Dubai fort
The cityscape outside of the downtown project is a vastly different world to the Dubai Mall and race-to-the-top-of-the-world projects like the Burj Khalifa.'Made in China'
1 UAE Dirham per ride across the river: 34 Singapore cents/27 US cents
On a window at a workers' quarters
A large mosque down town
Sprouting up from the dusty, brown landscape of the less-posh side of town was a clean new metro, newly-launched in 2009. It runs two lines through the spine of the city right now, and three lines are in the works.
Back near the hotel to wait for my flight back at night, I had some dinner by myself at a bustling Italian place overlooking the lake, I mean fountain.
Over dinner, I read this thoroughly depressing article, describing the gap between the working underclass of immigrants from poor Asian countries and the (much more) privileged Western expats and of course, the Emiratis themselves.
One day about town clearly wasn’t enough to make me an expert verifying the article’s claims, but sitting there at the restaurant surrounded by white expats and Emiratis, it made me think about how none of the Indian workers I saw in the day were anywhere to be found nearby.
The difference was stark.
In 2010, Emiratis made up 17% of residents in Dubai. A good majority of the rest of the city is made up of Indian workers in blue collared designations.
This is hardly something to bat an eyelid at, but the silent oppression and human rights violations described in Hari’s piece made it hard to swallow.
Cars waiting outside the Dubai Mall
The only supermarket at the mall: Waitrose
A spot of tea
The fountain in action, by the same guys that designed the Bellagio fountain in Las Vegas. No wonder it looked a little Oceans Eleven.
A giant iPad camera










































































































